Monday, January 14, 2013

Monday Gym Report

I got there late again. I've been so lazy lately... Climbed with Tom and Kirk.

I started with a 5.9, then a 10a, then sent the 10b that I fell off of, last week. It still felt pretty hard at the crux. This route gently overhangs the entire way, so the pump was building, but the crux is off two pretty bad holds.

Next I went to the brown 10b that crushed me early last week. I think it is harder than the 10d's that I've done. I did better this time, getting the clip at the lip of the roof, but not able to pull the crux move.

Next I did a 10b/c onsight. It had two very big reaches in it, but I was able to make the reach, somewhat dynamically. Then I did a 10a with a very overhanging, shouldery start. This pushed my right shoulder quite a bit, but I turned the lip and then was fine to the top.

I finished with one more go on the brown 10b route. I took a fall reaching for the crux hold, but figured out better feet for next time. I'm going to keep my feet a bit lower, under the overhang, until I make the crux move. Kirk was telling me to do this before, but it is not always obvious when to keep the feet low and when to move them up. He was right though. At least I think so. I'll find out Wednesday when I try to send this sucker.

So, just seven routes, but that's what you get for coming late: 5.9, 10a, 10b, 10b (one fall), 10b/c, 10a, 10b (one fall).

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