Friday, February 15, 2013

Friday Gym Report

I finally got smart and switched from my Muiras (size 41) to my Mythos (size bigger) climbing shoes. Duh! Tom was telling me to do this for weeks, but I get forgetting to put them in my car. They were way more comfortable on my damaged toe (which is taking its sweet time to heal. No noticeable improvement in a couple of weeks).

I climbed with Bruno and warmed up on a 5.9, 10a, 10b. Then I tried a new route with votes from 10d to 11b, most for 11a. I fell once, near the top and then finished it. Next I tried a cool 11b route on a arete. It was my style, but I had to grab a draw to clip before continuing to the top. On my next try I sent it.

I went back to the new 10d/11a/11b route and tried again, failing on the same last move. I thought this route was harder than the 11b with a one other very hard move below that served to sap all my strength for the final hard move. I decided to give it one more go, even though I was tired, just to learn the bottom sequence better and set it up for sending on Monday. I was surprised to just barely scrape my way to the top clean.

Summary: 9, 10a, 10b, 11a, 11b, 11b, 11a, 11a - 8 routes

Another five 5.11 session, so I'm solidifying things in the 11- range. Next week I'll go back to the blue 11c and see if I can get that baby.

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