Bolting for Glory Redux

At the top of the crux of Bolting for Glory

Photos (currently no other photos here - camera missing)

Last week Mark and I went back to Blind Faith for the third time and today I went back to Bolting for Glory for the third time this season. It was just Mark's second trip, but he had a very rough first visit. Fresh from the gym and really strong, he was quite disappointed to fall off this 10a multiple times and even have to pull on two of the draws to get through it. There is absolutely nothing in common between Bolting for Glory and gym climbing. Mark was much better prepared today, having been climbing twice a week in Eldo for the past three months.

We did the short approach to the route, finding the bushes as lush as I've ever seen them. We've had a lot of rain this year. I geared and zipped up the first pitch of Touch and Go (8+). I had run out less than half a rope length, but I stopped anyway, as I knew Mark wanted to watch me climb Bolting for Glory. We brought our 7mm static haul line along to practice with it and to get all the kinks out of it.

Mark followed nicely and I start up Bolting for Glory. This route is a bit exciting before the first bolt, but I got in a small cam to protect the climbing up it. Then it is exciting again getting to the second bolt as a fall for just below it would get you down pretty close to the ledge. Once I clipped that second bolt, I was more relaxed, as I knew I was safe. I got up to and clipped the third bolt easier than my other attempts and felt I had no trouble with the route. But then I did have a spot of trouble getting my foot up on the big holds at the end of this crux section. My rack was obscuring a foothold on the left, which Mark used nicely, and I had to do a very high step, putting my foot where my hand was mantling. I didn't fall off, though. I then finished directly above the fourth bolt instead of going hard left and then up, which is easier.

Mark went nicely up to the first bolt. He paused a bit before committing to the insecure, balance moves up to the second bolt, but was soon there. The moves up to the third bolt are what I consider to be the crux. Mark solved the footwork problem and even grasped the crux-finishing hold, though he didn't like it much. He tried to stretch for a better hold instead of standing up on his feet and he slipped off. On his second try, he got it easily and finished the route without any trouble. He glad to see such massive improvement on this route, but mostly he was a bit disappointed to not get it completely clean, after being so close.

We did one rappel to the with our two long ropes and packed up for the hike out. Apparently I left my camera behind here, as I've still not found it in my car or Mark's. :-(