The first pitch of Genesis is rated 11a and I've now led it at least five times, but still don't have a redpoint. I met Hardly at 6:15 a.m. today and it was 20 degrees colder than the day before. We stuck to the plan, though, and headed to Genesis. This time he went first and led the pitch cleanly. He pulled all the gear, including the bail biners on the pitons at the roof, while I lowered him - neither one of us is interested in pinkpoints, even on sport routes.
I went next and it went exactly as it has always gone for me. I get up to the roof, clip the pin and pump out before I can pull left into the rest. I hung on the rope and rested a bit, before making the move and resting before what the topo calls the technical crux at 11a. This move has never been that hard for me and I cranked it and then the rest of the wild, balancy, steep 10b climbing up to the anchors.
I threaded the rope and lowered down, pulling my gear. Hardly let me TR the crux section three times. I did it each time without hanging and I think I've got it down now. I should get the redpoint in two more tries at most. Hopefully just one more try.
We then headed to the Contest (11d) and Hardly led up to the third bolt before taking a rest on the rope. Then he went to the 4th bolt and the start of the crux. He tried the moves past this bolt a number of times without success before using the bail biner from Genesis to bail off the route. I didn't even bother to go up, as my arms were still pumped from Genesis.
Vertigo on Friday with Stefan... That's another brutal route for me. I've never even followed that baby cleanly.