Tuesday, August 30, 2005

King's X and Northcutt Direct Start

I met Hardly in Eldo at 6:15 this morning and we went straight to King’s X (10d). I had led the first pitch of this route cleanly before, but I had never led the A-roof pitch. Now most people combine these first two pitches and that’s what I did this morning. I cranked the hard (10d) move on the first pitch and then moved up into the roof and it went very well. I was excited to get it the first time I’ve tried leading it. I’d followed it three times before, but fell off it the last time, earlier this year. It is way cool and I’d do it again if either of you wanted to try it.

Hardly led the second pitch (5.8/9) and we downclimbed the Bomb/Boulder Direct (5.5) back to the ground. We then headed for the Bastille. I redpointed the Northcutt Direct Start (10d). This was cool since the last time I was here I toproped the pitch three times and only got it clean once. I was feeling strong today for some reason. Then Hardly sent Derek-tissima (12a) on TR (the sane only way to climb it, as there is no gear) on his first try. I then went up and worked on it as well. I finally did get the crux move, but I’m a ways away from getting this pitch clean. It involves an undercling on tiny, sharp holds where you have to paste your feet up to within about 18 inches of your hands and then make a huge reach up to the key handhold on the Northcutt Direct Start. Now you just have to do the crux of that route.

Anyway, it was good to get in a few clean leads.


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