Today and yesterday I was at Movement Climbing gym with +Tom Karpeichik . The shoulder is still really weak and I think I'll be stuck working 5.10 routes for most of January. Thursday I did a 5.8, 5.9, 10a, 10b, then a really hard 10b where I had to hang twice. Then I did another 10b clean and then tried one over a big roof and had to hang once. I ended by trying a vertical 10d and hung on it a couple of times.
Friday I did a 5.8, 5.9, 10b and then cleaned up a 10c that I had fallen at the top on the week before. I then tried the 10d vertical route and made all the clips, but couldn't quite finish it. I gave it another go, but there is a committing section lower down, with a tricky clip. If you blow the click, it would be a longish fall (for the gym). I didn't have the confidence and downclimbed to hang on the third bolt. I finished from there, though. This will be my project next week. I finished the morning with a 10a. Only 7 routes, but they were a bit taxing.
Tom is climbing super strong and already has 20+ 5.12's clean and a 12c clean. He's working a couple of 12d's now. I'm two number grades (8 letter grades) behind. Normally, I'm about 3 letter grades behind him. I've got some work to do.