Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Solidifying 5.10 in the Gym

I finally got to the gym early and even beat Tom, so that is solid improvement this week. Climbing? Oh, yeah, that is improving also, but as quickly as my arrival time...

I climbed with just Tom, as Kate showed up and paired with Kirk. I warmed up on a 5.9 and a 10a and then onsighted a 10b. That's depressing that I have to say "insight". :-) It is, what it is. I then went to my 10b project, which is really more like 10d. I failed on my first try, on the same crux move. I screwed up the approach a bit and wasted a bit of energy. I got it clean, just barely, on my second try.

I then did a new 10c and had a lot of trouble on the final clip, but I got it and finished clean. I moved on  to a new 10d and screwed it up a couple of times, hanging both times. I have no endurance to recover from reading the route incorrectly. I tried it again and got it down to one hang. On my third go, with a little better clipping strategy, I just barely got it clean.

I'm building my base of 5.10 routes. I think I've now done all the 5.10's that are not in "Gray Land", the  massively overhanging area. Today I did: 5.9, 10a, 10b, 10b, 10c, 10d, 10d, 10d, eight routes.

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