|Pulling over the A-shaped notch on the first pitch of Touch and Go|
From the ledge I noticed Tanya and Bruno below. They had bailed off their route when it started to snow and now the weather was looking better and they decided to climb Touch and Go as well. So, as Bruno led the first pitch, I led Bolting for Glory (10a). This time I moved right off the belay, put in a blue Alien and made it up to the first bolt much quicker than last time. I knew the moves to the second bolt and soon I was there. At that point things started to go downhill for me. I could not get comfortable with either the handholds or footholds. I stepped up and down a couple of times before committing and falling off! I was right at the bolt so I "fell" about three feet. Derek caught me and I got it next try, but, dang, I'm regressing! I mantled out the last hard move after clipping the third bolt and then went hard left after clipping the fourth bolt, ala Mark from last week.
Derek followed the pitch quickly and cleanly! First time he's climbed something that I fell off of! He's just really good with his feet. He has the confidence of a toprope and he just trusts his feet and pulls on the terrible, rounded, tiny holds. He looked way better getting by the third bolt as well, not doing the desperate mantle that I do.
|Climbing up Bolting for Glory|
Well, that route was too busy for us and I offered up toproping the first pitch of T2 (11b/c) and Derek was game. I led up a short, easy pitch to the bolted anchors that are above the anchors on T2. Derek followed and we did two raps to the ground. Off our last anchor we could toprope the first pitch of T2. This is an extremely burly, very overhung start where you get horizontal for a bit and even on toprope you can hit the slab if you fall. I have. I coached Derek to run down the hill a bit if I came off.
I pulled off the ground on the small but positive crimps and stuck my right foot straight up into a crack. I'm I then deadpointed to the rail above. Hitting it, I then swung my right foot up into a heel hook above my head. I was now horizontal to the ground. I deadpointed my left hand over to match, switched my heel hook to a toe hook and pulled for all I was worth and then deadpointed for the flake above me with my right hand. I got it! I pulled up on the still very overhanging ground and made a deadpoint to the crimp. I moved my feet way to the right and bumped the right hand higher. Then I could move up my left hand and reach right to the finishing jugs. Whew! The rest of the pitch is steep fun at mostly 5.7/8 with a touch of 5.9 thrown in.
|Derek learning how to let go with both hands while on rappel, by wrapping the rope around his leg.|
Since Derek couldn't finish the crux, where I had clipped a directional draw at the top, I had to climb it again. I was a bit worried I couldn't pull it off a second time, but I was just able to make it happen. Nice. There have certainly been times where I couldn't do this problem. I am no where near ready to lead this thing, though, and probably never will be. I'd have to be MUCH stronger as it's a ground fall (possibly onto your back) from about twenty feet up before you can clip the pin, which would be very difficult to clip anyway.
That was it for us and we headed back to the car. Fun times.
|Topping out on Bolting for Glory|