Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Cleanup on Aisle 5.11!

This morning I finally had a solid session in the gym, but it cost me some pain. Frustrated that I couldn't complete that 11a on Monday, I resolved to endure the pain and put a climbing shoe on my right foot. I warmed up with my approach shoe and did a 5.9, 5.9, and 10a (hard one). Then I switched to my climbing shoe. I'd endure the pain to the top of the route and immediately pull off the shoe while being lowered to the ground.

Next I got on the 10d where I grabbed the draw on Monday and fired it clean. I then went to the green 11a where I had fallen on the last more three times in a row. Clean. Then I the orange 11b with the brutal sequence at the lip of the roof. My first effort was up to the crux and then I fell. I worked out the most efficient sequence and finished the route. On my second go, I sent it.

Then I went back to a neat 11a arete route where I hung once on a couple of weeks ago. This time I moved through the crux section quickly and felt very comfortable sending it.

Getting froggy, I got on the 11c I tried a week ago. I got the first five clips clean, but had to grab the last draw to clip it. I hung and then just barely finished. I'll keep working it.

I switched back to my approach shoe and warmed down on a 10a.

Summary: 9, 9, 10a, 10d, 11a, 11b (one hang), 11b, 11a, 11c (one hang), 10a -- ten routes.

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